Veterans Day 2024: Our Correspondent's Report from the National World War One Memorial

Courtland at the "Return" Section of A Soldier's Journey

From Correspondent Courtland Jindra

For roughly ten years I had closely followed the developments of the National World War I Memorial in our nation’s capital and it’d been my hope to be able to attend the final dedication. Unfortunately, it ended up falling too close to my wife's and my actual vacation time to justify taking two trips so close together, but we still made a point to visit Washington as part of our autumn extravaganza to see the finished project.

Melissa and I first visited the site of the memorial in 2017, when then Pershing Park was still pretty rundown and ignored.  Nonetheless I enjoyed the information panels about the war that were already there as well and the monument to Black Jack.  I came away with hope for what the site would eventually be. 

At the Water Feature & Peace Fountain (Not Shown)

At that point Joseph Weishar and Sabin Howard had already been selected as the designer and sculptor (I must admit that an old co-worker and I entered into the competition as a lark—I like to think for total amateurs we had some good ideas), but they were mired in bureaucratic minutiae—that would continue for a couple more years. Obviously both had their plans scaled back, but the hope was their project would give the Doughboys the respect they deserve. 

I am happy to report that they succeeded. Even though it’ll never match the National Museum and Memorial complex in Kansas City, the new park in Washington, DC, is just lovely.  The old AEF information wall and Pershing elements have been spruced up and look almost brand new. The various quotes that are littered throughout are noticeable, but don’t call attention to themselves. The belvedere feature provides context beyond the battles US forces participated in, and I liked the inclusion of the various battles that ring its perimeter.

At the Belvedere

The main feature of course is Sabin Howard’s exquisite centerpiece sculpture that he titled A Soldier’s Journey and it is simply breathtaking in person. My first desire was to view it from afar to really take it all in, but soon I was strolling alongside of it admiring the craftsmanship of the various figures.  It really grabs your attention no matter how you look at it.  I had been admittedly afraid that it might be an ignored park—the first time I saw the American Veterans Disabled for Life Memorial, it made me sad that no one really stopped there other than my wife and I (and we were there for about an hour). I am happy to report that this is not the case at the WWI Memorial. People were drawn to Howard’s sculpture as if by gravity.  Visitors just stared in appreciation, contemplation, or both. It actually perturbed my wife after awhile because she was waiting for people to clear out so she could get some pictures of the whole wall with no one in the frame. We’d be there about an hour before she was able to get her “master shots.”

Daily Bugler in WWI Uniform

Melissa and I timed it so we could see "Taps" performed at 5 p.m., and again I was pleased because there was quite a crowd on hand. A couple of school groups sat respectfully by the belvedere as various others were spread out around the park (we were standing in front of the sculpture). The bugler played it solemnly and without a miss. We then decided to leave, but wanted to come back after nighttime descended upon Washington, so a couple of hours later we were back. There were still people milling about, but not as many so my wife got her photos much faster this time.  

Nighttime View of a Battle Veteran

Melissa would later tell me that other than the Lincoln Memorial, the new National WWI Memorial might be her favorite in all of Washington. It’s tough for me to say because I appreciate many of the monuments that grace our nation’s capital, but it is without question a masterpiece that demands to be visited. I hope everyone who stops by is inspired to watch a documentary or pick up a book on World War I and our nation’s contribution.  

Thanks to Courtland for a great report.  MH