Now all roads lead to France and heavy is the tread
Of the living; but the dead returning lightly dance.
Edward Thomas, Roads

Monday, June 10, 2024

Mte.Hermada: Austro-Hungarian Bastion on the Carso Plateau


Wartime Photo of Mte. Hermada Complex


Near  the top of the Adriatic Sea overlooking the road between Italy's towns of Montfalcone and Trieste is an open air war museum overlaying the collection of peaks known as Mte.Hermada (Mt. Ermada in some sources).  It's difficult to get to, has narrow roads, lousy signage, and (I'm told) is physically demanding to explore. I had one half day to explore it and by the time I got to what seemed to be a trailhead, it was too dark to proceed.  It is, however, in terms of historical importance, it's a very important locale and its story needs to be told.  In this article I will try to accomplish that by sharing the information I've been able to track down over the years with a good selection  of photos from online sources.



Up to Italy's defeat in 1917's Battle of Caporetto, Mte. Hermada was the greatest obstacle to Italy's campaign to take Trieste from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Overlooking the entire Carso  Plateau and the coastal road to Trieste, it was an important observation post from the start of hostilities.The altitude even led to its being equipped with anti-aircraft artillery.  It was also recognized—should the need arise—as a natural fortress.  Hermada's multiple peaks—the highest of which is at 1,060 feet,  limestone geology featuring many caves and grottoes in which defenders could shelter, and dense undergrowth would make it a formidable obstacle for any attacking force.  At the outbreak of the war on the Italian Front, however, the Italian Army was too distantly placed to threaten it.


Highest Peak (1,060 ft)
Coordinates 45°47′41″N  13°37′35″E


Stone Trench Network


As General Cadorna's forces slowly advanced across the plateau, Hermada came into range for more Italian artillery. In 1916, it was designated the southern anchor of  its new re-strengthened defensive line by the Austro-Hungarian commander, Boroevic von Bojna. By this time the massif was covered with rock-hewn trenches, concrete fortifications, and shelters and supply dump hidden in dozens of expanded caves.


Cave Entrance




Improved Interior with Platform and Steps


In May and June 1917, during the 10th Battle of the Isonzo, Italy's Third Army was ordered to attack again on the southern edge of the Carso. Taking Mte. Hermada was the critical objective and it would be the one time it was seriously threatened. After some initial progress, they reached the outskirts of Mte.Hermada in the last days of May, but eventually were halted by stiff Austrian counterattacks on 6-8 June. Units of the Catanzaro Brigade refused to advance in a last futile attack on Mte.Hermada and were subsequently formally decimated as punishment in July. 


Artillery Emplacement or Observation Post


Entrance to an Observation Post


The 11th Battle of the Isonzo in late September was focused north of the Carso and Gorizia and the October Austro-German victory at Caporetto pushed the entire Isonzo front far to the south, so there were no further threats to Mte. Hermada. For Austria-Hungary, it had accomplished its mission.



Tight-Fitting Trench


Fortified Artillery Position


Sources: Friuli Venezia Giulia Tourism; La Grande Guerra: Eleven Battles of the Isonzo.



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