For Memorial Day 2026: Embrace the Grandeur of America's Suresnes Cemetery Outside Paris

(All the Images Here Can Be Enlarged by Clicking on Them)

The Main Entrance, Suresnes American Cemetery

The American Battle Monuments Commission (ABMC) maintains 26 permanent American military cemeteries, 31 federal memorials, monuments, and markers, in 17 foreign countries. More than 200,000  of America's fallen service members are honored at these ABMC sites. One of those cemeteries is located on Mont Valérien in historically important the Parisian suburb of Suresnes.  Although, it is one of the smaller ABMC cemeteries, it is especially admired for it's dramatic location, history, and beauty. 

It is also the only ABMC cemetery with burials from both World Wars. The 7.5-acre cemetery contains the remains of 1,559 Americans who died in World War I and 24 unknown dead of World War II. The cemetery also honors approximately 1,000 missing service members—lost or buried at sea—whose names are inscribed on bronze plaques inside the chapel.  Rosettes mark the names of those since recovered and identified.

View from Blvd Washington, Suresnes

A Spectacular Location

The cemetery at Suresnes was established in 1917 by the Graves Registration Service of the Army Quartermaster Corps. A majority of the World War I Dead buried there died of  wounds or sickness in hospitals located in Paris or at other places in the Services of Supply. Many were victims of the influenza epidemic of 1918-1919. Loaned in perpetuity to the United States, it became the site for America's first permanent overseas cemetery. The significance of the cemetery to France is underscored by its location overlooking Paris, and its close proximity to Versailles. The American Cemetery is adjacent to a historic Fort Mont Valérien which is now a memorial to the French resistance movement of World War II.

View from Mont Valérien

 Looking East on a Clear Day , the Bois de Boulogne,
Eiffel Tower, (3.5 miles) and the Pantheon Can Be Viewed

Sunrise Over the Cemetery

A Distinguished History

The cemetery was dedicated by President Woodrow Wilson during Memorial Day ceremonies of 1919, just a month before the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. This  made Suresnes the nation's first overseas  military cemetery. Originally supervised by the Army's Graves Registration service, the cemetery's administration passed to the American Battle Monuments Commission in 1934.  The Commission—established in 1923 under General Pershing's leadership—had been responsible for construction of the chapel and landscaping of the grounds, which were completed in 1932. 

At the end of World War II, it was decided that this particular cemetery should serve to commemorate the Dead of both World Wars, making it unique among the ABMC cemeteries. An additional grave plot was created as an eternal resting place for the unidentified remains of 24 World War II Unknowns. Commemorative loggias and with separate war  memorials were also added to the original chapel. Since the Great War, Suresnes has been the site of annual Memorial Day, Veterans Day, and joint French-American commemorations. On 11 November 2018, it was the site of the remembrance of the 100th Anniversary of the Armistice with President Donald Trump in attendance.

Original Dedication Plaque

Suresnes Cemetery Was Dedicated by President Woodrow Wilson During
Memorial Day Ceremonies, 1919

Memorial Day 1922  

Suresnes American Cemetery is the ABMC cemetery with the highest number of women interred — 24 in total. These women played a crucial role in World War I as nurses, secretaries and even one of the famous telephone operators, also known as “Hello Girls.”

General Pershing,  Marshal Foch, and Other Notable French and Belgian WWI Commanders Visit in 1927

A Gold Star Mother Visits Her Son's Grave in 1930

When it was decided that Suresnes should serve to commemorate the Dead of both World Wars, and additional grave plot was created as an eternal resting place for the unidentified remains of 24 World War II Unknowns. Commemorative loggias were also added to the original chapel.  The World War II section was dedicated in 1952 in a ceremony presided over by General George C. Marshall, then Chairman of the ABMC.

Construction of the New Loggias

100th Anniversary of the World War I Armistice, 11 November 2018

An Elegant Design 

The original entrance and chapel were designed by architect Charles A. Platt of New York. The landscape design for the Suresnes American Cemetery was created by the French architect and landscape designer Jacques Gréber.  His landscape plan features symmetrical pathways, perfectly aligned crosses, and expansive terraces designed to take advantage of the dramatic elevation and provide panoramic views of Paris.  Charles Platt's sons, William and Geoffrey Platt, would later design the loggias and memorial rooms which comprise the loggias added to the chapel after World War II. 

The Graves of the Fallen Are Perfectly Laid Out,  the Crosses and Landscaping in Accordance with the High Standards for All ABMC Cemeteries 

The Additional Plot for the 24 World War Two Burials of the Cemetery

Above the Chapel Entrance Is Inscribed:
PEACEFUL IS THEIR SLEEP IN GLORY

The Chapel 
The "Angel of Victory" Bears a Palm Branch for the Graves of the Fallen

The two "loggias", dedicated post-WWII, are two covered, open-air galleries that flank the central memorial chapel. In the rooms at the ends of the loggias are white marble figures in memory of those who lost their lives in the two wars. Inscribed on the loggia walls is a summary of the loss of life in our armed forces in each war, together with the location of the overseas commemorative cemeteries where our war dead are buried.

The WWI Loggia and Memorial Entrance Added in 1952
A Matching WWII Complex Is On the Other (North) Side of the Chapel

At the end of the south loggia, one enters the World War I memorial room and faces a pure white statue entitled “Remembrance.” This graceful figure was created in Carrara marble by the American sculptor John Gregory, of New York, New York. The walls and floors of the memorial room are of Italian marbles of varying shades and give a rich subdued effect to highlight the statue.  The WWII room houses a statue titled "Memory," by American Sculptor Lewis Iselin.

Relief in the WWI Loggia
(The WWII Loggia Has a Similarly-Themed Relief)

An ABMC Staff Member Discusses the WWI Memorial Statue
"Remembrance" with Visitors

Visiting Today

Here are some practical points about visiting Suresnes American Cemetery

Address: 123 Boulevard Washington, 92150 Suresnes, France

Hours: Open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Closed on Christmas Day (Dec 25) and New Year's Day (Jan 1).

Cost: Free, no booking required in advance

Train / Tram: Take the Transilien train (not the Metro) from Gare St. Lazare to the Suresnes Mont Valérien station, or take the tram to the La Défense station. From the Suresnes station, it is about a 10-minute walk uphill to the cemetery.

Taxi/Ride-Share: Approximately a 5-mile (10 to 15-minute) drive from central Paris.

The Visitor's Center

Grave Sites on Special Occasions 

Every Memorial Day, Each American Battle Monuments Cemetery Holds a Commemorative Event Like This One at Suresnes in 2016

A Personal Note

On my battlefield tours, I've taken 7 groups to visit Suresnes American Cemetery. Most the individuals had never heard of it before. Almost without exception, upon arrival, they were extremely taken by the beauty of the site, and as we departed, collectively, they were always quiet and reflective.  If you are ever in Paris and wish to see a memorable and moving example of how the United States honors its Fallen, please consider stopping off at this splendid shrine. MH

P.S.

By All Means — A Visit to Suresnes American Cemetery Can Be Combined with a Visit to the Magnificent Lafayette Escadrille Memorial. It's just a 4-Mile Drive Away

Thanks to Suresnes Superintendent  Carly Mathieu for the support on this article.  Photos are mostly from ABMC sources, Wiki Commons, and the Library of Congress.

The London Territorials at the Somme

London's Territorials Attacking at the Somme

London Territorial Force units, often known as "London's Territorials" or the London Regiment, was composed primarily of  London professionals, bankers, clerks, post office workers, and craftsmen. The regiment raised 88 battalions for the war, with roughly 80% of the men being London residents. The London battalions formed the London District, which consisted principally of the 1st and 2nd London Divisions. Most of the battalions served on the Western Front, with a scattering of units deployed to Gallipoli, Palestine, and Salonika.

The Regiment made their mark on Western Front, quite early. The London Scottish was the first Territorial unit to go into battle on the Western Front in October 1914. The London Irish Rifles may have established the practice of kicking soccer balls towards the enemy's trenches during an over-the-top attack at Loos in 1915. It would be in 1916, however, during the Battle of the Somme, that they saw their most memorable service. At great cost, these Kitchener Army units shattered the prewar myth that civilian volunteers could not fight as well as regulars.  

They played their role at the Somme primarily with the the 56th (1st London) Division and the 47th (2nd London) Division. They were involved in major actions including: the 1 July assault on Gommecourt, the attacks on Ginchy and High Wood (September 1916), and the final, costly, and unsuccessful assault on the Butte de Warlencourt in October 1916. 

At the Somme the London Regiment battalions suffered appalling loses. Over the first five days of the battle, the regiment recorded 1,433 men killed in action. Over the 141-day battle, several battalions recorded killed-wounded-missing totals greater than the manning standards for the unit.

Sources:  Several online articles on the London Regiment

A Dozen Drawings from America's Most Pro-War Political Cartoonist, W.A. Rogers

W.A. Rogers

W.A. Rogers (William Allen Rogers, 1854–1931) was a prominent American cartoonist and illustrator, best known for his long career at Harper's Weekly. He succeeded the legendary Thomas Nast as the magazine's primary cartoonist in 1877. Rogers was opposed to Germany's conduct of the war from its beginning. When America entered the World War, he served as an executive member of the Division of Pictorial Publicity within the Committee on Public Information (CPI) during World War I. From August 1914 to November 1918, he produced a constant flow of anti-German and pro-Ally stream of cartoons.

"It was a glorious Victory
(Over Belgium)"

"The first great German “U” boat Victory"

"Just Whose Pet Snake Is This?"

"Is God Still With Us?"

"A Good Recruiting Sergeant for Uncle Sam"

"The Junker Must Go"

"To France"

"Who Shall Rule? Man or Beast?"

"The Way to Do It."

"Now for a Roundup
(Sedition Law Passed)"

"Speed Up!"

"Christmas in Europe 1918"

Sources:  Library of Congress; America's Black and White Book: One Hundred Pictured Reasons Why We Are At War

Gumbinnen: A Lesser-Known but Highly Influential Eastern Front Battle

 

Russian Infantry

On 20 August 1914, the German Eighth Army was surprisingly defeated by the larger, but clumsily advancing Russian First Army commanded by General Paul von Rennenkampf. It was—by the standards of the Great War—a smaller and less dramatic victory/defeat. This is a relative matter, of course. The two armies committed 138,000 combatants that day and suffered a combined 34,000 killed and wounded. Nonetheless, the responses and subsequent actions to the event by the local commanders and the general staffs overseeing them are a much bigger story. Those men and their immediate decisions would powerfully influence the conduct of the war on both the Eastern Front and Western Front.

In an action just three days earlier at Stallupönen (map below), the Germans—anticipating a Russian drive towards Königsberg—had administered a small but stinging defeat on their adversary.  They been both better prepared for their first battle of the war and lucky. German General Hermann von François, commander of  I Corps of the Eighth Army had decided—on his own initiative—to take his forces to Stallupönen where he expected Russian forces to be probing  for a flanking attack. His quick attack devastated a Russian division that had no awareness of the presence of an enemy corps in the neighborhood. This forced a temporary halt for Russia's First Army, which was just initiating a major invasion of East Prussia. German forces, strategically on the defensive, then withdrew and consolidated at what seemed to be a strong defensive position around Gumbinnen. 

Three days later, German Army Commander General Maximilian von Prittwitz ordered a pre-emptive attack on the now slowly approaching  Russians. German forces initially had some success on the flanks—especially, once again, von François in the north. Overall, however, the attack was largely repulsed by surprisingly strong Russian artillery, against the German XVII Corps under August von Mackensen in the center.  The Germans were forced to retreat — advantage Russia (apparently). However, both commanders were surprised by the results, and responded to the outcome in ways that would dramatically influence future operations. 

The losing commander, General Maximilian von Prittwitz, whose mission had been to slow the Russian advance while the main German forces dealt with France, was overawed by  the combination of the  defeat and the subsequent receipt of information of the advancing Russian Second Army from the south. When he suggested a plan to–in effect–abandon East Prussia to the enemy, he was quickly sacked in favor of the Hindenburg-Ludendorff team. 

General Rennenkampf's response (or maybe non-response) of failing to continue pressuring the Germans, however, would have disastrous implications for his army's further operations on the  Eastern Front. Within a week, it would allow the new Eighth Army leaders to disengage from Russia's First Army, concentrate on Samsonov's Second Army, and administer a catastrophic defeat on it at Tannenberg. Any sort of major thrust by First Army would have forced the Germans to divert troops to face him. But there was no pressure.

Russian Artillery Was the Key to the Russian Victory at Gumbinnen

Despite its setback at Gumbinnen, Eighth Army had been  left free to execute the strategy— worked out in pre-hostilities war games—of punching Russia's northern army hard enough to stop it in its tracks, and then turning south to deal with their enemy's other army deployed in the northern theater. 

On a broader scale, Gumbinnen may also had a war-shaping impact on Germany's 1914 campaign in the west. After the defeat, General Moltke at the German High Command seems to have lost confidence in the disposition of forces in the East and ordered two army corps and a cavalry division away from the Western Front. This critical troop diversion may have weakened the right wing of the German advance into France, contributing to the eventual failure of  Germany's plan for victory. Such were the consequences of the Battle of Gumbinnen.

Sources:  WorldWarI Today; Gumbinnen 1914, U.S. Army Command and General Staff Paper

Another Guy Who Predicted World War One: August Niemann

August Niemann (1839–1919)

Bio

German actor, editor, and author Wilhelm Otto August Niemann's 1904 novel, Der Weltkrieg: Deutsche Träume (The World War: German Dreams) in 1904, published in English as The Coming Conquest of England. anticipates a coming worldwide war, but his cockeyed starting lineups for the competing alliances led to vastly different outcome. His prediction was that Great Britain would lose a two-front war in India and at home against an irresistible grouping of Germany, France, and Russia arrayed against them. Nevertheless, he accurately recognizes that the latent energy building up beneath the post-Napoleonic great power rivalries is going to result in an explosive release. Niemann is especially disturbed by (envious of?) the British Raj. 

He is more remembered for his science fiction works,  especially  his 1909 Jules Verne-style novel, Aetherio: A Trip to the Planets, a tale of interplanetary voyaging in which the protagonists travel not only to Mars, Venus, and the Moon but also into a hollow Earth. He lived to see the war he predicted come, and its outcome, with which he was presumably extremely disappointed.

British India 

Niemann's Dream

"I recall to mind a British colonel, who said to me in Calcutta: “This is the third time that I have been sent to India. Twenty-five years ago, as lieutenant, and then the Russians were some fifteen hundred miles from the Indian frontier; then, six years since, as captain, and the Russians were then only five hundred miles away. A year ago I came here as lieutenant-colonel, and the Russians are right up to the passes leading to India.

"The map of the world unfolds itself before me. All seas are ploughed by the keels of English vessels, all coasts dotted with the coaling stations and fortresses of the British world-power. In England is vested the dominion of the globe, and England will retain it; she cannot permit the Russian monster to drink life and mobility from the sea. 

“Without England’s permission no shot can be fired on the ocean,” once said William Pitt, England’s greatest statesman. For many, many years England has increased her lead, owing to dissensions among the continental Powers. Almost all wars have, for centuries past, been waged in the interests of England, and almost all have been incited by England. Only when Bismarck’s genius presided over Germany did the German Michael become conscious of his own strength, and wage his own wars.

Are things to come to this pass, that Germany is to crave of England’s bounty—her air and light, and her very daily bread? or does their ancient vigor no longer animate Michael’s arms?

When Germany Unified

Shall the three Powers who, after Japan’s victory over China, joined hands in the treaty of Shimonoseki, in order to thwart England’s aims, shall they—Germany, France, and Russia—still fold their hands, or shall they not rather mutually join them in a common cause?

In my mind’s eye I see the armies and the fleets of Germany, France, and Russia moving together against the common enemy, who with his polypus arms enfolds the globe. The iron onslaught of the three allied Powers will free the whole of Europe from England’s tight embrace. The great war lies in the lap of the future.

The story that I shall portray in the following pages is not a chapter of the world’s past history; it is the picture as it clearly developed itself to my mind’s eye, on the publication of the first despatch of the Viceroy Alexieff to the Tsar of Russia. And, simultaneously like a flash of lightning, the telegram which the Emperor William sent to the Boers after Jameson’s Raid crosses my memory—that telegram which aroused in the heart of the German nation such an abiding echo. I gaze into the picture, and am mindful of the duties and aims of our German nation. My dreams, the dreams of a German, show me the war that is to be, and the victory of the three great allied nations. Germany, France, and Russia—and a new division of the possessions of the earth as the final aim and object of this gigantic universal war."

Author's Preface, The Coming Conquest of England

The Aviator. A Biography of James R. McConnell, Lafayette Escadrille Fighter Pilot

By Steven Tom 

Schiffer Military History, 2025

Reviewed by David F. Beer

Original Members of the Lafayette Escadrille: James McConnell,
Kiffin Rockwell, French Capt. Thenault, Norman Prince, Victor Chapman

James McConnell’s own bestselling book Flying for France appeared shortly before his death in World War One. He effectively described the war both on land and in the air but didn’t reveal much about himself either as a person or as a participant in the conflict. These details, however, are vibrantly revealed in Steven Tom’s The Aviator, and Schiffer Military History has done a magnificent job of presenting this work. The numerous black-and-white photos give us excellent views of each stage of McConnell’s too-short life, while the text is readable and enhanced by frequent excerpts from personal letters and memos.

If you’ve been on the campus of the University of Virginia you may have noticed a 12-foot-high bronze statue of a winged Icarus reaching into the sky. The inscription reads “Soaring like an eagle into new heavens of valor and devotion.” This statue honors James Rogers McConnell, a former student of the university who in his time there may have been better known for his campus social life and self-taught bagpipe playing. When war broke out in Europe, however, Jim, like many young men of his age and social class, sympathized with France and left home and country to fight. In January 1915 he sailed to France and joined the American Ambulance Field Service, which, other than enlisting in the French Foreign Legion, was at the time the only way an American could really be part of the war.

This is an extremely detailed biography. In the early chapters on Jim’s work as an ambulance driver we learn not only about his adventures (which at times are no less than heroic) but also about the evolution of the vehicles which became increasingly efficient in carrying the wounded and dying. American ambulance drivers were greatly appreciated:

The presence of the American ambulance…has an important influence upon the morale of the French troops. This factor is not to be disdained, for in the long, grueling campaign the morale is everything. The concrete expression of America’s sympathy for France’s sacrifice is to no small extent buoying up the French hopes...The ambulance section has been cited for the order of the day and decorated with the war cross…they are brave young men, seriously doing their work (57–58).

When Jim transfers to the Lafayette Escadrille and trains to become a pilot his progress—and the methods used by the French to train a pilot—are fascinating. With him we experience flying in various types of aircraft including the Penguin, Voisin, Caudron, and Blériot, and to describe Jim’s experiences as ‘hairy’ or precarious would be an understatement. He records much of his flying in his letters to friends and is especially moved by what he sees over Verdun, which he later describes as a “strip of murdered Nature”:

It looks as if shells fell by the thousands every second. There are spurts of smoke at nearly every foot of the brown areas, and a thick pall of mist covers it all. There are but holes where the trenches ran, and when one thinks of the poor devils crouching in their inadequate shelters under such a hurricane of flying metal, it increases one’s respect for the staying power of modern man. It’s terrible to watch, and I feel sad every time I look down (157).

The biography is greatly strengthened by significant portions of Jim’s letters to relatives and friends (including girlfriends) and by the citing of articles which Jim wrote and sent to popular American magazines. His style is always direct and unadorned.  He is quite forthright in his criticism of the United States for not immediately joining the French and British in the War. He describes the living conditions he experiences at each base he is sent to and like other flyers is frustrated and angry when weather conditions prevent any flying.

James R. McConnell, Sergeant-Pilot, Escadrille Américaine
KIA 19 March 1917
Order HERE

Just over two weeks before the United States entered the war, Jim was killed. He went missing on a morning patrol but due to bad weather was not found for a few days—during which all his companions desperately hoped he had merely crash-landed and been taken prison. But on 23 March, around 10:00 p.m.,

…the news everyone feared was confirmed. The squadron received a message that advancing French troops had found the wreckage of Nieuport #2055 near the Bois l’Abbe. The pilot…was found lying dead beside the plane. German soldiers had apparently taken all identifying papers from the body and had also taken his boots. A doctor estimated he had been dead for three days (p. 245).

Jim had outlived many other pilots and had made his mark in so many ways, including the literary one.  The Aviator gives us valuable insight into his life, his feelings, his friendships, and above all his courage. No wonder the memorial to him in Carthage, North Carolina, reads “He fought for humanity, liberty, and democracy.”

David F. Beer

The Boer War to World War: Tactics and Training in the British Army 1902–1914 (Video)

About That World War One British Warship Wreck Discovered off Scottish Coast

HMS Hawke

The wreck of HMS Hawke, an Edgar-class protected cruiser sunk by a German U-boat in 1914, has been discovered 360 feet down about 70 miles off Scotland’s Aberdeenshire coast, a search team announced in August. The Royal Navy confirmed the identity of the find in September 2024.

After 110 years of repose beneath the North Sea waves, the 387-foot Hawke, one of the early Royal Navy ship losses of World War I, remains in a notable state of preservation, with much of the teak decking still intact and a host of everyday artifacts such as crockery visible in the cabins. “It’s a really remarkable time capsule,” remarked wreck diver Steve Mortimer to the BBC.

The U-9 Was One of Only Two Vessels Awarded the Iron Cross in the War 
(Inset) Kapitänleutnant Otto Weddigen

Mortimer has been working on the project with Lost in Waters Deep, a Scottish group dedicated to researching and locating “the First World War naval losses off mainland Scotland, the Western Isles, Orkney, and Shetland.” Considerable preliminary legwork by the team, combing through contemporaneous data in British and German war records, set the stage for the discovery by shipwreck searchers off the diving support vessel Clasina.

Launched in 1891, the Hawke served in the Royal Navy’s Mediterranean Squadron in the 1890s in addition to various other duties. An uncanny incident in September 1911 seems, in retrospect, to have been an ominous indication of the ship’s eventual fate: Her bow was smashed in a fluke collision off Southampton with the ocean liner RMS Olympic—sister ship of the Titanic, which sank the following year.

German Depiction of the Sinking

The Hawke was deployed with the 10th Cruiser Squadron, protecting a Canadian troop convoy from German warship attacks, on 15 October 1914 when she dropped out from the patrol to pick up mail from HMS Endymion. Hastening to rejoin her now out-of-sight squadron, the Hawke was struck by a torpedo from the German submarine U-9—which less than a month earlier had mortified the British public by sinking three ships of the 7th Cruiser Squadron in one shockingly decisive encounter.

Now, U-9’s latest victim quickly burst into flames from the fatal torpedo hit. An explosion rocked her, and in less than eight minutes, HMS Hawke had gone to her final resting place. Seventy men survived, while 524, including the captain, died with their ship.

Source: Naval History, December 2024