Lonesome Memorials #21: The Portogruaro, Italy, Charnel House

Click on Image to Enlarge

The city of Portogruaro (population appox. 25,000) lies 35 miles northeast from the Venice lagoon near the eastern border of the Veneto.  During the First World War, it was an important road and rail hub. From 1915 to1917 it sent supplies and troops north to support the Italian efforts to breakthrough on the Isonzo River line.  Then, in October 1917, things were radically changed through the breakthrough by the Central Powers at Caporetto as Italian forces retreated to the south of the city, where a new line was established on the Piave River.  For the next year—until the conclusive Battle of Vittorio Veneto, Portogruaro had the misforture of being occupied by the enemy.

When the war ended, the belligerent nations had the remains of over 300,000 fallen scattered around the Isonzo sector to bury permanently.  Out of a decades-long effort grew a network of 58 cemeteries, and 11 mass burial structures known as Charnel Houses in this region (Ossuaria in France).  Over 700 fallen from nearby battlefields are interred at the beautiful Portogruaro Charnel House.  These fallen included Italian, Austrian, Hungarian, and Polish soldiers.  The beautiful structure shown above was constructed at the Portogruaro Municipal Cemetery. The shrine was recently restored on the occasion of the Great War Centenary commemorations. 

(Note:  I have been unable to find a photo of the interior of this Charnel House.  I have visited several others and they are uniformly elegantly designed.  If you happen to have an interior photo please contact me HERE, and I'll add it to this article. MH)

Portogruaro Bonus Entry

The city also has an interesting municipal World War I war memorial.  As you can see, it is in the equestrian style, usually reserved for heroic figures like the statues of Marshals Joffre and Foch in Paris, with a triumphant pose, and appears more modern than classical looking.  Below are some details from the town's website.

The work of sculptor Gaetano Orsolini, the monument was created in 1928. It features a tall marble base, engraved with the city's coat of arms on the front, along with a dedicatory inscription in memory of the fallen. It is located at the Piazza della Repubblica. On both sides, following a shield-like pattern, are the names of the 276 citizens of Portogruaro who lost their lives in the conflict. Four eagles are sculpted at the upper corners of the base, while above it stands an equestrian monument, depicting a soldier returning from war, holding an image of winged Victory in his hand. The sculpture draws on the Venetian tradition of equestrian monuments, particularly those of the medieval Scaliger Tombs in Verona, revisited with a modern sensibility.

Directions:

Let's assume you are driving from Venice's Marco Polo Airport:

• Take Via Triestina/SS14 to Raccordo Marco Polo
• Drive from A4/E70 to Portogruaro. Take exit Portogruaro from A28 Portogruaro - Conegliano/A28
• Take SR251, Viale Pordenone and Via Isonzo to Viale Cimitero in Portogruaro