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| Gun Postion with Informational Kiosks |
Well "new" to me, it was apparently dedicated in 2012. While wandering lonely as a cloud o'er the vales and hills of the Italian Front on Google maps, I came upon a fluttering host of artillery bunkers and rather well preserved trenches of the stony type particular to that sector of the war. Somehow, in my three visits to the Italian Front, sadly, I missed the World War I Outdoor Museum at Monte Brestovec, Italy. It appears to be an outstanding exhibit of military archeology.
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| Trenches |
Further investigation on my part led to a flood of high quality photos on the Internet, like those shown here. At first, I was puzzled at how the restorers of the site had created such a neat and clean look to its tunnels and barricades. In my experience, such restored positions still have a battered, weathered feeling, 100+ years after the fighting. Additional research, though, revealed the interesting fact that these improvements at Mount Brestovec—completed by the Italian Army after its successful advance to this point after the Fifth and Sixth Battles of the Isonzo—had rarely, if ever, drawn enemy fire. Here's the background.
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| Tunnel in the Artillery Section |
The 200-meter peak which dominates the surrounding section of the Carso Plateau was used by the Austro-Hungarian army for observation of Italian movements between Gorizia and the Gulf of Trieste. From the start of hostilities in the Spring of 1915. For over a year General Cadorna's forces took heavy casualties in an almost futile effort to advance across the plateau towards Trieste. In 1916, however, he managed to organize two attacks that proved somewhat successful. In the Fifth Isonzo, the Italian Army captured the nearby village San Michele del Carso and, in the Sixth, the city of Gorizia farther north. (Details on those battles HERE.)
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| Observer Outpost |
Following the Sixth Battle of the Isonzo, the Italian Military Command had to build new defensive lines to prevent new attacks by the Austrian Army, if they moved in force into the valley just east of Brestovec. Following an order by the Duke of Aosta Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, Commander of the Third Army, the whole section west of the valley was fortified and entrenched with enclosed artillery galleries around the crest and strong trenches protecting the position. Eight gun emplacements were excavated under the summit of the hill, which housed eight 49mm cannons. Two tunnels allowed access to the guns and cover of infantry passing to the trenches.
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| Infantry Transit Tunnel |
The new construction of the field works took from January 1917 to late summer. For a time afterward, the action moved to the north and things were relatively quiet around Mte. Brestovec. Then, in October 1917, catastrophe struck the Italian Army. The Second Army was nearly destroyed at Caporetto and the Third Army was forced to abandon the Carso including the new fortifications.
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| Summit of Mte Brestovec |
Today visitors can tour the entire site which has been enhanced with informational kiosks, cut-outs of the artillery pieces, and follow two routes, each describing the experiences of two soldiers, an Austro-Hungarian one and an Italian who served in the area. The entrance of the Italian soldier bears the inscription La pace (Peace) and the entrance of the Austro-Hungarian soldier bears the inscription Vo(g)liamo la pace (We want peace). These words were cut into rock by soldiers on Brestovec.
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| The Trail from San Michele to the Site |
For Visitors
1. Approach the village of San Michele del Carso via SS55. Eventually, you will see signage for Mte. Brestovec. Follow those through the winding village roads.
2. You will be guided to the campo sportivo (sports playground). Park the car by the playground and continue on foot.
3. Follow the signposts for the Brestovec trail.
4. Details about the hike.
- Duration: 2 hrs total, 30min from San Michele to the first trenches
- GPS coordinates: 45.877547, 13.574102
- Altitude: 208 m
- Recommended Equipment: Trekking clothing and footwear, drinks and food from backpack, flashlight
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