Now all roads lead to France and heavy is the tread
Of the living; but the dead returning lightly dance.
Edward Thomas, Roads

Sunday, May 24, 2026

For Memorial Day 2026: Embrace the Grandeur of America's Suresnes Cemetery Outside Paris


(All the Images Here Can Be Enlarged by Clicking on Them)



The Main Entrance, Suresnes American Cemetery

The American Battle Monuments Commission (ABMC) maintains 26 permanent American military cemeteries, 31 federal memorials, monuments, and markers, in 17 foreign countries. More than 200,000  of America's fallen service members are honored at these ABMC sites. One of those cemeteries is located on Mont Valérien in historically important the Parisian suburb of Suresnes.  Although, it is one of the smaller ABMC cemeteries, it is especially admired for it's dramatic location, history, and beauty. 

It is also the only ABMC cemetery with burials from both World Wars. The 7.5-acre cemetery contains the remains of 1,559 Americans who died in World War I and 24 unknown dead of World War II. The cemetery also honors approximately 1,000 missing service members—lost or buried at sea—whose names are inscribed on bronze plaques inside the chapel.  Rosettes mark the names of those since recovered and identified.


View from Blvd Washington, Suresnes


A Spectacular Location

The cemetery at Suresnes was established in 1917 by the Graves Registration Service of the Army Quartermaster Corps. A majority of the World War I Dead buried there died of  wounds or sickness in hospitals located in Paris or at other places in the Services of Supply. Many were victims of the influenza epidemic of 1918-1919. Loaned in perpetuity to the United States, it became the site for America's first permanent overseas cemetery. The significance of the cemetery to France is underscored by its location overlooking Paris, and its close proximity to Versailles. The American Cemetery is adjacent to a historic Fort Mont Valérien which is now a memorial to the French resistance movement of World War II.



View from Mont Valérien



 Looking East on a Clear Day , the Bois de Boulogne,
Eiffel Tower, (3.5 miles) and 
the Pantheon Can Be Viewed



Sunrise Over the Cemetery


A Distinguished History

The cemetery was dedicated by President Woodrow Wilson during Memorial Day ceremonies of 1919, just a month before the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. This  made Suresnes the nation's first overseas  military cemetery. Originally supervised by the Army's Graves Registration service, the cemetery's administration passed to the American Battle Monuments Commission in 1934.  The Commission—established in 1923 under General Pershing's leadership—had been responsible for construction of the chapel and landscaping of the grounds, which were completed in 1932. 

At the end of World War II, it was decided that this particular cemetery should serve to commemorate the Dead of both World Wars, making it unique among the ABMC cemeteries. An additional grave plot was created as an eternal resting place for the unidentified remains of 24 World War II Unknowns. Commemorative loggias and with separate war  memorials were also added to the original chapel. Since the Great War, Suresnes has been the site of annual Memorial Day, Veterans Day, and joint French-American commemorations. On 11 November 2018, it was the site of the remembrance of the 100th Anniversary of the Armistice with President Donald Trump in attendance.



Original Dedication Plaque



Suresnes Cemetery Was Dedicated by President Woodrow Wilson During
Memorial Day Ceremonies, 1919



Memorial Day 1922  

Suresnes American Cemetery is the ABMC cemetery with the highest number of women interred — 24 in total. These women played a crucial role in World War I as nurses, secretaries and even one of the famous telephone operators, also known as “Hello Girls.”



General Pershing,  Marshal Foch, and Other Notable French and Belgian WWI Commanders Visit in 1927



A Gold Star Mother Visits Her Son's Grave in 1930


When it was decided that Suresnes should serve to commemorate the Dead of both World Wars, and additional grave plot was created as an eternal resting place for the unidentified remains of 24 World War II Unknowns. Commemorative loggias were also added to the original chapel.  The World War II section was dedicated in 1952 in a ceremony presided over by General George C. Marshall, then Chairman of the ABMC.


Construction of the New Loggias



100th Anniversary of the World War I Armistice, 11 November 2018


An Elegant Design 

The original entrance and chapel were designed by architect Charles A. Platt of New York. The landscape design for the Suresnes American Cemetery was created by the French architect and landscape designer Jacques Gréber.  His landscape plan features symmetrical pathways, perfectly aligned crosses, and expansive terraces designed to take advantage of the dramatic elevation and provide panoramic views of Paris.  Charles Platt's sons, William and Geoffrey Platt, would later design the loggias and memorial rooms which comprise the loggias added to the chapel after World War II. 


The Graves of the Fallen Are Perfectly Laid Out,  the Crosses and Landscaping in Accordance with the High Standards for All ABMC Cemeteries 



The Additional Plot for the 24 World War Two Burials of the Cemetery




Above the Chapel Entrance Is Inscribed:
PEACEFUL IS THEIR SLEEP IN GLORY



The Chapel 
The "Angel of Victory
" Bears a Palm Branch for the Graves of the Fallen

The two "loggias", dedicated post-WWII, are two covered, open-air galleries that flank the central memorial chapel. In the rooms at the ends of the loggias are white marble figures in memory of those who lost their lives in the two wars. Inscribed on the loggia walls is a summary of the loss of life in our armed forces in each war, together with the location of the overseas commemorative cemeteries where our war dead are buried.


The WWI Loggia and Memorial Entrance Added in 1952
A Matching WWII Complex Is On the Other (North) Side of the Chapel


At the end of the south loggia, one enters the World War I memorial room and faces a pure white statue entitled “Remembrance.” This graceful figure was created in Carrara marble by the American sculptor John Gregory, of New York, New York. The walls and floors of the memorial room are of Italian marbles of varying shades and give a rich subdued effect to highlight the statue.  The WWII room houses a statue titled "Memory," by American Sculptor Lewis Iselin.


Relief in the WWI Loggia
(The WWII Loggia Has a Similarly-Themed Relief)



An ABMC Staff Member Discusses the WWI Memorial Statue
"Remembrance" with Visitors


Visiting Today




Here are some practical points about visiting Suresnes American Cemetery

Address: 123 Boulevard Washington, 92150 Suresnes, France

Hours: Open daily from 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Closed on Christmas Day (Dec 25) and New Year's Day (Jan 1).

Cost: Free, no booking required in advance

Train / Tram: Take the Transilien train (not the Metro) from Gare St. Lazare to the Suresnes Mont Valérien station, or take the tram to the La Défense station. From the Suresnes station, it is about a 10-minute walk uphill to the cemetery.

Taxi/Ride-Share: Approximately a 5-mile (10 to 15-minute) drive from central Paris.



The Visitor's Center



Grave Sites on Special Occasions 



Every Memorial Day, Each American Battle Monuments Cemetery Holds a Commemorative Event Like This One at Suresnes in 2016


A Personal Note

On my battlefield tours, I've taken 7 groups to visit Suresnes American Cemetery. Most the individuals had never heard of it before. Almost without exception, upon arrival, they were extremely taken by the beauty of the site, and as we departed, collectively, they were always quiet and reflective.  If you are ever in Paris and wish to see a memorable and moving example of how the United States honors its Fallen, please consider stopping off at this splendid shrine. MH


P.S.

By All Means — A Visit to Suresnes American Cemetery Can Be Combined with a Visit to the Magnificent Lafayette Escadrille Memorial. It's just a 4-Mile Drive Away


Thanks to Suresnes Superintendent  Carly Mathieu for the support on this article.  Photos are mostly from ABMC sources, Wiki Commons, and the Library of Congress.


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